Wednesday, April 11, 2007
Plaza de Armas, Havana, Cuba
Che Guevara's handsome face seems to adorn nearly everything in Cuba from huge billboards to murals and road signs. I never tire of seeing him. He must be one of the most photogenic people I've ever seen.
Around the leafy Plaza de Armas, the bookstalls appear mainly to sell his published journals, or books by or on Fidel Castro. He is affectionately referred to as 'Fidel' by Cubans. I can't imagine talking about 'Tony' at home.
Che has iconic status here. Castro not only made him a Commander (hence the reference to Che, Comandante, amigo) in 1957 but granted him Cuban citizenship in 1959. The more I hear about Che, the more fascinated I become. There are several interesting photos of Che and Castro together, two educated (Che was a doctor and Castro a lawyer) charismatic personalities who came together and changed the course of world history.
(Photo - books stalls on the Plaza de Armas)
Habana Vieja, Cuba
Habana Vieja (Old Havana) is a great place to stroll aimlessly. Colourful and atmospheric the old town is a hotchpotch of crumbling houses standing next to elegantly restored hotels and museums. Habaguanex uses the money brought in by tourism to renovate the old town. It's a slow process and while this is happening several generations of family are living together in small dilapidated apartments. The high ceilings allow extra floors to be added to create more room.
The buying and selling of houses is not permitted in Cuba as they're effectively all owned by the state, as are most things. Relatives tend to live together and younger generations naturally inherit their parents or relatives houses.
Old Havana, Cuba
Although Hotel Raquel is lovely, it's way beyond my budget to stay here, as are most hotels in Havana.
The guidebook lists several 'casa particulares' but the one we pick is full. This doesn't seem to be a problem. The landlady of the 'casa' is soon on the phone to her friends and tells us to wait until someone comes to pick us up. It's a steep learning curve on my first day but I realise everyone in Cuba knows someone who will give you shelter or feed you in their home, at a price. In fact you need to go out of your way to avoid being 'hustled' (more on that later).
After visiting a couple of shabby 'casas' in run down areas of Centro Habana we return defeated to the Raquel to check out. The same hotel porter from last night asks us where we're going and when I say we don't have anywhere to stay yet, he recommends a 'casa particular', which is where local people rent out a room in their house to tourists for between 20-30 CUCs (CUCs roughly translate to US dollars). It's an easy way for local people to make money and the government also profits by levying a tax. Although I had read about the dual currencies of pesos for locals and CUCs for tourists, I hadn't grasped how cash-strapped most Cubans are. With pesos locals often pay much less for the same things.
Thankfully he takes us to a fairly pleasant casa right on Old Havana's main street, Calle Obispo, albeit run by a slightly scary landlady who immediately whisks our passports off to register us. No doubt the porter will receive some sort of commission for his trouble.
(Photo - Calle Obispo)
Cuba
For various reasons I haven't managed to obtain a visa for Cuba so I'm worried I'll be stuck in Caracas for a while. I needn't have worried though as the airline sells them at the check-in desk, which is fortunate.
My flight is delayed for three hours which means I don't get into Havana until seven-ish. Al is waiting for me at the Hotel Raquel, which is much plusher than anywhere I've stayed in South America. I feel completely out of place entering the marble foyer with my backpack, but it's good to see a familiar face from home.
Hotel Raquel has been spectacularly restored by Habaguanex to its former colonial splendour, complete with stained glass ceilings and Italian marble pillars. Tourists visit the hotel to take photos.
I'm tired and hungry so one of the hotel porters recommends a restaurant and offers to escort us there. I don't realise at the time, but this is a taster of what's to come in the next three weeks. We end up eating on the balcony at El Patio, a large restaurant on Plaza de la Catedral. Half the menu isn't on, something else I'll have to get used to, but the views of the floodlit cathedral and beautiful colonial houses surrounding the square make up for it. I like Old Havana already.
(Photo - Old Havana)
Sunday, April 08, 2007
Friday, April 06, 2007
South America Highlights
I've been asked a few times which are my 'favourite' places in South America so here's my Top 10 in no particular order:
1) Torres del Paine National Park, Chile
2) Antarctica (ok, not strictly South America)
3) Angel Falls/Canaima National Park, Venezuela
4) Atacama Desert/Uyuni Salt Flats, Bolivia
5) Los Glaciares National Park (Fitzroy), Argentina
6) Inca Trail, Peru
7) Lake District/San Martín de los Andes, Argentina
8) Iguassu Falls, Brazil/Argentina
9) Devil's Nose Train, Ecuador
10) Buenos Aires, Argentina
Other places which are also fantastic but I didn't have room to include:
- Ushuaia, Argentina
- Valparaíso, Chile
- Cusco, Peru
- Rio de Janeiro, Brazil
- Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina
(Photo - Torres del Paine National Park, Chile)
Caracas, Venezuela
It's my last day in Caracas and although it's not been my favourite city, I think its reputation as a lawless jungle is largely exaggerated. While not feeling completely safe, I found Rio much more menacing (and have not had to resort to carrying around my belongings in a plastic bag).
I've really enjoyed Venezuela, which has re-enthused me about travelling in Latin America, since my 'low' in Ecuador. Still, after nearly six months travelling in South America I'm ready to move on.
Downtown Caracas, Venezuela
Back in Caracas I decide to visit the craft centre of El Hatillo, 15 kilometres outside the city. It's famous for its department store, Haansi, of handicrafts, all of which are massively overpriced.
In town I decide to follow Lonely Planet's Simon Bolívar tour of downtown Caracas. Most interesting of all though is a concert in the main square (Plaza Bolívar) protesting against President Bush's interference in Latin America. Bush is currently in Argentina and Chavez never misses an opportunity to rile his nemesis.
Mochima National Park, Venezuela
I've arranged for our group to take a boat out to some small Caribbean islands just off the north coast of Venezuela, one of the best places to snorkel or dive according to my guidebook. We dive at a spot called 'Las Burbujas' (The Bubbles) where small bubbles rise out of the volcanic rocks on the sea bed. As I'm waiting for the dive master to help me go down I realise he's forgotten I don't yet have my diving certificate and have no idea what I'm doing. A slight sense of panic sets in.
Only a few metres under water I can already see a range of beautiful corals including masses of brain coral covered in technicolour Christmas tree worms. The colours are incredible, spanning all the colours of the rainbow. More ominous is a huge well-camouflaged stone fish and a moray eel. In my hurry to move away from the stone fish I cut my foot on some coral which throbs and itches for days afterwards.
Although the water is crystal clear, the islands are hot and arid, almost desert-like, affording very little shade apart from the odd cactus plant.
On the way back to the coast we stop off at an island entirely covered in plastic bags and bottles which we affectionately name 'Garbage Island'.
(Photo - 'Garbage Island')
Santa Fe, Mochima National Park, Venezuela
Not completely happy with our accommodation on top of a steep hill in Playa Colorada, we move to the beach front hostel 'Cafe del Mar' in Santa Fe. The beach is similar to the one at Playa Colorada but it makes a difference being able to step out of your room on to the sand.
There's not much to do here except swim and relax, which is just perfect. We wile away the evening playing card games, mainly 'cheat', the clear favourite of the group. The losers must perform a dance - sadly the most humiliating forfeit we could think of at the time.
(Photo - writing my journal)
Playa Colorada, Mochima National Park, Venezuela
Playa Colorada is pleasant enough but nothing special - a curved bay with orange sand and dotted with a few palm trees. Arriving quite late we relax at a bar on the beach which sells beers at 25 pence a bottle.
Guácharo Cave, Caripe, Venezuela
While several of the group are out horse riding in Caripe, the rest of us play challenging card games such as Go Fish and Crazy Eights.
We're heading for Playa Colorada in Mochima National Park but first stop off at Guácharo cave, named by the Indians for it's unique nocturnal birds. Alfred Hitchcock sent a team to Venezuela to capture the sounds of the cave for his film 'The Birds'.
Orinoco River, Venezuela
During the night I dream my hammock is spinning out of control. I sleep badly, there's a symphony of snoring going on all around and I can hear people peeing into the river. Early in the morning howler monkeys fill the jungle air with frightening whooping sounds. It's so loud I feel they're very close.
On the long trip back up the Orinoco to Tucupita we run out of petrol. I discover that we'd donated ours to take a local sick child to hospital early in the morning. The child unfortunately died on the way.
At a local village we exchange some bottles of fizzy drink for petrol and continue on. More bad news in Tucupita awaits us. Paul's backpack is missing and a rat has chewed it's way through Ian's bag.
Before we can continue to Caripe, our stop for the night, Paul files a police report for his stolen bag.
(Photo - Winamorena II community)
Orinoco Delta, Venezuela
Despite being woken up early by snoring and the eerie sound of howler monkeys, I think I slept quite well.
Today we head up the main cañon and out to sea. On the way we stop off at another local community on the river bank very similar to the last, called Winamorena II. Before reaching the sea we stop off at Pedernales, a party-esque town where there are murals painted on the roads and walls, loud music blaring over the town and people drinking beers on the street. I wonder if it's like this every day. I imagine Jamaica to be a bit like this.
There is an oil rig flame burning in the distance and as we head towards it we become beached on a sand bank. Rocking the boat from side to side eventually frees us after an hour of trying. On the way back to camp we spot river dolphins, red ibis and capuchin monkeys.
Travelling through dense mangroves, Lilo, our guide pulls a long skinny bud from the Carolina tree and asks me to blow on it. I tentatively do as he says. 'Blow harder' he says. I oblige accordingly and suddenly the bud magically bursts into a shocking pink shower that leaves me transfixed like a child.
It's our last night in the jungle and Lilo has put on a special spread for us with more of the dreaded White Eagle and a bucket of rum punch. It's a full eclipse tonight and we contentedly spend the evening drinking and playing several rounds of 'cheat'.
(Photo - red ibis)
Full moon on the Orinoco, Venezuela
Following a candlelit dinner of spaghetti bolognese, our cook brings out a bottle of White Eagle Whisky. With not much else to do, apart from retire to our hammocks, we manage between us to devour three whole bottles. It's vile stuff and even mixing it with coke only makes it slightly more palatable.
At midnight we climb into small canoes for a trip up one of the narrow 'cañonitos' (channels) of the Orinoco. Tonight it's a full moon and there's an enchanting feel in the air. Slowly we paddle up the river. The only thing I can see are the black trees silhouetted in the silvery moonlight. It's magical. Slightly nervous about tipping the canoe, as I'm only two inches from the surface of the water, I keep deadly still. The only sounds to be heard are the birds, still singing sweetly and the slow gush of water as we paddle on. It feels like a dream. Back at camp I'm brought sharply back down to earth by the whisky-induced snoring next to me.
(Photo - Orinoco River)
Orinoco River, Venezuela
The Orinoco is exactly how I imagined it - a brown river lined with mangroves, palms and thick vegetation. On the long boat ride to our jungle camp a guide spots a sloth in the trees. It barely moves as we all crowd around to take photos.
Before reaching camp we stop off at a Warao community called Wakajara de la Horqueta on the banks of the river. The Warao are the second largest indigenous group in Venezuela, after the Guajiro. The name literally means 'canoe people'. Their houses are built on stilts at the riverbanks connected by a wooden walkway. Litter is everywhere. I'm particularly disturbed to see lots of empty plastic Coke bottles tossed in the undergrowth, a sign of how western civilisation is creeping in.
Tucupita, Venezuela
It's a night bus ride away from San Felix and our final destination of the Orinoco Delta, the second largest delta in South America after the Amazon, covering 25,000 square kilometres.
At 7.30pm the night bus leaves Santa Elena and immediately the driver switches off the lights so there's no option but to try to sleep. The air conditioning is on overdrive and my fleece is inadequate in staving off the blasting cold air. I therefore sleep badly and when I'm thrown off the bus in San Felix at 5am I barely remember climbing into a dilapidated Cadillac taxi for the 2.5 hour drive to Tucupita, a hot river town and the jumping off point for Orinoco trips. The taxi driver has loud music blaring when we climb in but we soon kill his fun by covering his speakers with our daypacks so we can sleep.
Deprived of sleep we head to the agency that will take us down the river into the jungle.
(Photo - In Tucupita after travelling for 15 hours)
La Gran Sabana, Venezuela
Santa Elena is a small town of 12,000 people centred around one main street. It's the base for trips into Gran Sabana and the six-day hike to Roraima tepuy, the highest in Venezuela. I briefly contemplate doing this as I'd love to see its unique flora but regrettably I don't have the time. One day I'd like to come back and climb it.
Instead I settle for a tour to explore the region's vast, rolling grassy highlands. The trip is not what I expected and actually consists of visiting four different waterfalls, all of which pale in comparison to Angel Falls, especially as the dry season has rendered them particularly unimpressive. I won't be disappointed if I don't see another waterfall for a while. Added to this, I seem to have been bitten all over by 'jejenes' (vicious gnats).
The day ends with a sunset view over Gran Sabana, and the place where Jurassic Park 2 was filmed. Dinosaurs would not seem out of place here, even now.
(Photo - La Gran Sabana)
Sunday, March 11, 2007
Tepuys, Canaima National Park, Venezuela
It's a two-hour flight from Canaima to Santa Elena in La Gran Sabana. On the way we fly two circuits around Angel Falls but there's no sense of scale from this height and therefore does not compare to the experience of seeing the falls at close proximity. I'm now even more grateful at having had the opportunity to go upriver.
Canaima National Park, Venezuela
I'm still reeling from the trip to Angel Falls yesterday so the trip across Lake Canaima to Isla de Anatoliy and Sapo Falls nowhere near compares. As it's the dry season the falls have almost dried up but there's a powerful cascade in the middle and a slippery path underneath. There are also beautiful views of Canaima National Park across the lake.
Angel Falls, Venezuela
Angel Falls was accidentally discovered by American pilot Jimmie Angel who landed on the top of the tepuy in 1937 in his light airplane in search of gold. His plane got stuck in the marshes and couldn't take off again so he was forced to trek through the rough terrain and descend a kilometre of almost vertical cliff. It took him 11 days to reach civilisation.
After nearly two hours of fairly strenuous walking I reach the lookout point. Although the cascade from the top of Auyún tepuy is elegantly slim, it's still breathtaking as it tumbles nearly 1km into the pool beneath known as the Cañon del Diablo (Devil's Canyon). Angel Falls is the world's greatest uninterrupted drop, 16 times the height of Niagara Falls. I lie on a rock staring upwards. I could stay here watching for hours but unfortunately we need to hike back and start our long journey back down the river.
The fact that Angel Falls is so remote and not easy to reach (a minimum of six hours by canoe plus a two hour hike) makes it that little bit magical.
Anaconda, Angel Falls
A short time into our walk one of our group spots a young anaconda of about 1.5 metres coiled under a bush. We all freeze as it slowly crosses the path in front of us. It's only the second time I've seen a snake in the wild and although I'm assured it's a rare occurence, for the next half hour I nervously scrutinise the tree roots on my path.
Jungle walk to Angel Falls
I do not sleep well. The hammocks are strung too close together and somehow I manage to be repeatedly elbowed in the head during the night.
The two-hour hike from camp to Angel Falls climbs through steep dense rainforest. The forest floor is covered with rocks and a thick network of winding tree roots which are tricky to negotiate. Although it's so humid I have sweat pouring off my chin within minutes, I'm enjoying the hike. The sunlight filters through the tree canopy lighting up the pretty bromeliads high in the trees.
Angel Falls camp, Canaima, Venezuela
Six hours after we began our adventure up the river someone points out a thin white wisp of water spilling out from the top of Auyún tepuy. We all know it's Angel Falls but it's rather underwhelming. Even our guide is disappointed having only seen it in its voluminous wet months. Nevertheless I'm not disappointed as I've already reached sensory overload with the stunning landscapes I've seen today. Tomorrow we'll hike up through the jungle to the base and have a closer look.
Our camp for the night at Isla de Ratón is basic to say the least - a concrete shelter with a couple of wooden beams to attach our hammocks to. As we're all exhausted we manage a quick dinner before collapsing in our hammocks at 9pm.
Journey to Angel Falls, Venezuela
Soon we're travelling up the Churún, a smaller shallower tea-coloured river lined with pink stones. The colour of the water comes from the tannin in the plants that seeps into the river. The views of the tepuys around are breathtaking and I feel I'm in a surreal prehistoric world. I don't want this magical journey to end.
The canoe skims over the river bed jerkily crashing from side to side. Occasionally we become beached on the rocks and the boys climb over board and push until we're free again.
Three hours in and the wooden seats have numbed my behind. I'm sunburnt and wet but still in awe of the amazing landscape.
Journey to Angel Falls, Venezuela
On arriving at camp we're given the surprising news that we will be able to take canoes up to the base of the falls but we're likely to need to get out and push at times as the river is so low. No one cares; we're just thrilled to be able to do it. And we need to leave immediately in order to arrive before dark.
We manage to fit into two wooden motorised dug-out canoes and start out journey up the fast-flowing Karrao river. The river is wide, shallow and full of jagged rocks. As we pass through several rapids most of us manage to receive a good soaking which is not unpleasant in the sticky heat. An hour in and I glimpse the huge labyrinthine Auyún Tepuy rising majestically from the pristine rainforest. Angel Falls tumbles from its summit but we'll have to travel up-river for another five hours until we can get our first glimpse.
Tepuy, Canaima National Park, Venezuela
Flying over Canaima National Park, I have my first glimpse of tepuys or tepuis, giant flat-topped sandstone mountains rising out of the jungle dating back two billion years. 'Tepuy' is the local Pemón people's word for mountain. Sir Arthur Conan Doyle based 'The Lost World' on these structures after reading an article on the discovery of unique ecosystems that have managed to evolve independently on the summit of these monoliths. Each tepuy has developed its own characteristic plant life and consequently the area has the highest percentage of endemic flora to be found anywhere in the world.
Flying to Canaima, Venezuela
Having felt generally unimpressed by anything over the past couple of weeks, I'm finally excited again about travelling to Angel Falls which is a minimum six-hour boat trip into the heart of Canaima National Park. Unfortunately as it's the dry season, the river is low so it's looking unlikely that we'll be able to take the canoes to the base of the falls. We're told the best we can hope for is a flight over the top, which is a little disappointing for everyone.
The flight to Canaima takes 1.5 hours in a rickety light aircraft. We pass over dense broccoli-like rainforest and land at Canaima camp at midday.
(Photo - taken by Bob (on the left))
Sunset at Ciudad Bolívar, Venezuela
Last night I had my most expensive meal so far in South America at GBP 17. It's a shock after paying on average GBP 3 for a meal. Venezuela appears to be even more expensive than Chile.
I'm not sad to be leaving Caracas today. Although I didn't hear them myself my travelling companions were excitedly talking about the gunshots they heard close to our hotel.
It's a 9-hour bus ride to Ciudad Bolívar, the place Simon Bolívar set up his base to liberate most of South America from Spanish rule. Ciudad Bolívar is a colonial city on the banks of the Orinoco. It's old name is 'Angostura' which means 'the Narrows' as here the river is at its narrowest, at only 300 metres wide. We arrive just in time for sunset and I'm doubly pleased as I've now finished Anna Karenina.
Caracas, Venezuela
I'm on a roll so decide I might as well do the one other thing I wanted to do in Caracas which is to take the teleférico (cable car) up to Mount Ávila for a view of the city. Still paranoid about being mugged/shot I take a taxi to the bottom of the hill.
As I've been used to paying so little for everything in South America the ticket price seems a little steep at 30 Bolivars (about GBP 7). I seem to be the only person around so I have a car to myself which is just as well as my camera spookily decides to play up, just as it did on the cable car up to San Cristóbal in Santiago. The 20-minute ride up passes over two large hills which gives me enough time to panic, administer emergency surgery on my camera and calm down as I unbelievably manage to fix the problem.
From the top of Mount Ávila there is a hazy view of Caracas on one side and a view of green hills leading down to the sea on the other. Unfortunately like the cable car in Quito, they've made it into a mini amusement park complete with ice rink, 3D simulator and children's playground.
(Photo - Caracas from the cable car)
Botanical Gardens, Caracas, Venezuela
I have a full day in Caracas before I head out east so decide to visit the Botanical Gardens as recommended by my guidebook. I'm not disappointed as they're some of the most well-maintained gardens I've seen, with a wide range of Bromeliads and unusual trees. I manage to spend a couple of hours leisurely walking around but this may have something to do with the 30 degree heat.
Going to Caracas
On my early morning ride to the airport I watch the the mist drifting in from the mountains and casting a warm glow over the city. It makes me a little sad to be leaving Quito as I've enjoyed the past few days here. I'm also slightly nervous about going to Caracas and wondering if I'm going to have to stay holed up in my hotel room the entire time, or if the danger aspect is exaggerated.
I've never heard of Santa Barbara Airlines and am wondering if it's the cowboy airline of Venezuela. At check-in I overhear a guard telling the people in front that they can't take water, cream or liquids in their hand luggage. I have all of these things in my bag so I ask him if it applies to sunscreen. He asks me where I'm going. When I answer 'Caracas' he laughs and says 'Oh, they don't care about that there'. I'm not sure if this is a good thing or not.
I'm completely paranoid when I arrive in Caracas airport and break into a slight run (very difficult with my backpack) every time someone approaches me for money exchange or taxis. As I have no local currency (bolivars) I head to the bank and try to take some money out of the cash machine. It says 'thank you very much - please take your money' but hasn't dispensed any. Stupidly I try the transaction again thinking I perhaps didn't read the instructions properly but it does the same thing. Inside the bank they assure me it won't be debited from my account. Lonely Planet says differently! LP also says that a taxi to the city centre should cost around USD 15 so I almost have a heart attack when I'm quoted 70. Not liking Caracas much so far. Have been warned about taking an unofficial taxi, of which there are lots, so I bite the bullet and after much negotiation agree to pay USD 40 to my hotel in Sabana Grande.
On the way into town I pass by a sprawling shanty town and remember that Caracas has the unfortunate honour of having one of the largest slums in the world, or so I've been told. It's also the fastest growing capital in Latin America having grown from 350,000 people to nearly five million in the last 50 years.
Not sure what I expected but Caracas is hillier and greener than I had envisaged. It's also modern, fast-paced and hot. Skyscrapers mixed in with a hotchpotch of randomly-shaped buildings dominate the skyline. It's messy, not pretty and feels like a shabbier version of Rio. Despite oil money being pumped into modernising the city, the disparity between rich and poor is evident, as in many of the countries in South America.
(Photo - Botanical Gardens, Caracas)
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