Lancetillas (not sure what the English translation is) and lichen
Wednesday, February 21, 2007
Lancetillas, Cotopaxi National Park, Ecuador
Lancetillas (not sure what the English translation is) and lichen
Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador
Quito is dead. The streets are empty and an eerie feel pervades the air. It seems everyone has left for the coast or the mountains during Carnival weekend. I'm not sure what to do so I consult my trusted guidebook. It recommends Cotopaxi volcano as one of Ecuador's highlights so I sign up to climb again. I must be mad. After all my whinging about climbing volcanoes here I am again doing it in the snow and paying 45 dollars for the privilege.
The drive to Cotopaxi National Park takes about two hours through the 'Avenue of Volcanoes', also part of the Pan-American Highway. Although there are only four active volcanoes enroute there are over 50 'volcanic peaks'. Once inside the park it's another hour's drive to the car park where we begin our trek to 4800 metres. Cotopaxi, which means 'collar of the moon' in Quichua, is the second highest peak in Ecuador (after Chimborazo) and is an active volcano having last erupted in 1904.
I'm sceptical as to whether I'll actually be able to see the volcano as it's been misty and drizzling all morning. I also hadn't anticipated snow at the starting point and temperatures of zero degrees. Luckily the guide has brought along several woolly hats and pairs of gloves for us to borrow.
Immediately the walk starts on volcanic sand and snow and it's a slow trudge uphill as my feet sink ankle deep into the ground. As the mist thickens visibility becomes very poor and for a while I can only see a few metres ahead of me. Although I stop several times I find it relatively trouble-free and am surprised I have no cause to swear along the way. For a couple of minutes the mist clears to reveal the Cotopaxi Summit although it very quickly mists over.
On reaching 4800 metres I feel like continuing (the 5-8 hours) to the summit at 5897 metres but this calls for crampons, ice-axes and probably some expertise.
Cloister, La Merced Monastery, Quito, Ecuador
Had a mad morning. Firstly the taxi driver got lost on the way to the Cuban embassy and spent half an hour trying to find it. On arriving at the embassy I'm told that they can't actually issue it here as I'm not flying to Cuba directly. Disappointed I decide to treat myself to pancakes at one of my favourite eateries in La Mariscal called the Magic Bean Café. I arrive too late as they're now on lunch menus. Instead I opt for a banana and strawberry smoothie and they manage to get that wrong as well. I'm in a bad mood now and decide that an afternoon of photographing cloisters will restore my serenity.
I take a taxi into the old town and the taxi driver claims I gave him a one dollar bill instead of ten. At the time I'm not entirely sure so don't question it but as soon as I step out of the cab I realise I was right. Not only that but he has overcharged me too. Great. I no longer feel sorry that his son hasn't been in touch since he moved to the UK years ago. Think I'm having a bad day.
My guide book claims San Agustín has 'beautiful' cloisters but I'm disappointed. It's practically a building site. Hopefully La Merced will be better but on arriving the gates are locked. On enquiring at a desk nearby I'm told that it's not open to the public. 'But my guidebook says it is' I say childishly. 'What book?' she replies sternly. It's no use and I'm about to leave when I see someone going through the gate. I ask him if I can take a quick look at the cloister but he says I'll have to ask the lady at the desk.
I have nothing to lose so I appeal to her good nature and ask if I can look inside. Sometimes this works and sometimes it doesn't. Surprisingly I don't even have to persuade her. She jumps up, opens the gate and tells me to stay on ground level as the Fathers will be angry with her if they find me wandering around.
I'm glad I did. The cloister dating from 1534 is beautiful, grand and austere at the same time. Coloured rose petals cover the paving stones all the way around. At the centre of the cloister is a fountain adorned with a statue of Neptune. This makes up for this morning's misadventures.
Monday, February 19, 2007
Equator, Ecuador
In 1736 Charles-Marie de la Condamine and his French expedition determined the location of the equatorial line at 23 kilometres north of Quito. Here at the Mitad del Mundo (Middle of the world) is a giant monument dedicated to him, located in a tourist complex.
According to modern GPS measurements the location is 150 metres away where the Museo Intinan is located. Here a guide conducts a number of experiments to prove this is the point where all forces equal out. It's amazing to see - on the equator water drains straight down the plug hole instead of spinning clockwise or anti-clockwise. A few metres to the left and right the water spins in each direction.
(Photo - Me on the Equatorial line)
Cloister, San Francisco Monastery, Quito, Ecuador
Both the monasteries of La Merced and San Agustin which supposedly have exquisite cloisters are closed so I visit the San Francisco Monastery instead.
Quito Old City, Ecuador
Back in Quito I explore the old city and am pleasantly surprised. Declared a World Heritage site, Quito's colonial centre, or the Old City, is full of narrow cobbled streets, leafy squares and beautiful churches and monasteries.
Up on Cerro Panecillo where there are great views of the city and surrounding mountains and volcano, the statue of the Virgen de Quito overlooks the Old City.
(Photo - view of the Old City from Cerro Panecillo)
Laguna Cuicocha, Ecuador
20 kilometres from Otavalo is the crater lake of Laguna Cuicocha (Guinea Pig Lake) at 3070 metres. The lake was formed when a volcano erupted and collapsed leaving two small resurgent peaks, shaped like a guinea pig, now rising out of the lake.
The walk around the crater is 8km and I anticipate an easy stroll as I'd don't feel much like an arduous hike. I should have known better after spending the best part of two months in the Andes - there is no such thing as Andean flat. The walk via the narrowest of paths is a gruelling undulating one, up countless steps and down steep ravines. The view at first is spectacular but after an hour I'm ready to go home which of course I can't.
It's also cold, misty and raining and I've usefully left my raincoat back in Quito. Three and a half hours later I've made it around but I'm wet and miserable.
Cascada de Peguche, Ecuador
Otavalo is set in beautiful countryside, with lakes and waterfalls nearby. A short taxi ride from town is the Cascada de Peguche. Although the waterfall itself is unspectacular the surrounding eucalyptus forest is enchanting.
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