Cadbury's World, Dunedin, New Zealand

I have a date with the chocolate factory this morning and as a chocolate addict almost nothing will stop me from keeping it. Cadbury's World is a Christmas wonderland decked out in gold tinsel, fairy lights, toys and jingly music. It makes me feel slightly homesick. Excitingly there's a chocolate mixing machine called a conche filled with liquid chocolate.

The word chocolate comes from the Mayan 'Xocolatl'. The Maya, Olmec and Toltec were though to be the earliest consumers of chocolate, in the form of a drink called 'Xocoatl' made from roasted cocoa beans, cold water and hot spices.

Dunedin, New Zealand

Dunedin means 'Edinburgh of the South' and has many of the same street names as its northern counterpart (George Street, Princes Street, Moray Place etc.) but lacks the style. A statue of Robert Burns looms over the city.

Nugget Point, The Catlins, New Zealand

Nugget Point, The Catlins, New Zealand

My final stop before Dunedin is Nugget Point, a 15-minute walk along an open cliff side to a solitary lighthouse overlooking pinnacles of rocks scattered in the bay. Sunset is creeping in and the pinks and oranges provide a perfect backdrop to the deep blue sea.

The Catlins, New Zealand

The Catlins Coaster picks me up in the afternoon for my next stop in Dunedin. On the way we stop at Roaring Bay, home of the rare yellow-eyed penguin. Unlike the penguins in Antarctica these are shy and keep their distance from humans. The yellow stripes across their eyes reminds me of the 1980s. For some reason Hazel O'Connor comes to mind. They are a little too far away to capture on camera.

Matai Falls, The Catlins, New Zealand

Matai Falls, The Catlins, New Zealand

The Matai Falls are a short walk through a diverse forest of ferns and mosses.

Purakaunui Falls, The Catlins, New Zealand

Forest on the way to Purakaunui Falls

Purakaunui Falls, The Catlins, New Zealand

Vincent, the French guest who arrived last night offers to give me a lift to Purakaunui Falls. Without a car it's difficult to get around the Catlins. I'm pretty much forested-out from my walk yesterday so I'm grateful. The falls are a 10-minute walk through Jurassic Park-type rainforest to a pretty tiered waterfall.

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

Back at Hilltop I try to change the light bulb but accidentally pull out the wire and blow a fuse which short-circuits half the lights in the house. At the same time a French guy arrives looking for a bed. Relieved that I don't just have bad news I call Eleanor, the house manager, and tell her about her new customer and the lights.

Later that evening she tells me that she warned me not to go into the forest (no one goes there apparently) as I'd be covered from head-to-toe in mud. I don't remember this advice. I have a bath to soak away the mud and linger under the heat lamps.

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

Since I reached the beach I've lost sight of the orange markers and have no idea how to return to the loop track. I walk along the empty beach and get caught by the tide coming in. I start to worry about being stranded so quicken my pace. Since I started my walk the bay has filled up with water so my only route back is through the forest. It's now mid afternoon and I'm worried I won't make it back before dark. I'm cold and tired and the thought of going back through the dark boggy forest fills me with dread. No one knows I'm here so I have no choice. As the bay curves round I see two orange poles flagging the start of a forest track. I've no idea where it leads, I just hope it doesn't take me to the other side of the bay. I'm no longer interested in trees, ferns or mosses. I just want to go home. I put my camera away and prepare for another two-hour ordeal through the forest.

I walk quickly on the flat wide track expecting the bogs to start appearing soon. Instead I come across a sign saying '3-hour loop track' which confuses me. Two minutes further on and I'm out of the forest and at the start of the track. I can't believe it. It's only taken me 20 minutes to walk back (via the Old Coach Track).

(Photo - Podocarp forest on sand dunes)

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

The bay is surrounded by dead, twisted trees battered by the strong winds off the coast, reminding me again of Patagonia. I see many similarities in both the landscapes perhaps because both South America and New Zealand were once part of the super continent Gondwana. I climb down to the beach which is covered in frost. There isn't a soul in sight. Just me and the triffid-like seaweed.

Tahakopa Bay, The Catlins, New Zealand

After two hours the canopy suddenly opens up and a few minutes later I emerge on the windswept Tahakopa Bay.

Tahakopa Bay Forest, The Catlins, New Zealand

Tahakopa Bay Forest, The Catlins, New Zealand

The bog

Tahakopa Bay Forest, The Catlins, New Zealand

As I go deeper it grows darker, denser and wetter. I'm suddenly faced with fallen trees to clamber over and muddy pools to negotiate. My pleasant forest walk has turned into a bit of an ordeal (as is becoming commonplace with my walks). I'm forced to take large detours around boggy areas to avoid getting stuck and lose my way a couple of times. I cross bog after bog sometimes balancing on slippery fallen trees. I'm covered in mud and have no idea where I am in the forest or how far it is to the bay. I can hear the roaring sea but it doesn't seem to be getting any louder the further I walk. I contemplate going back but I'd only have to cross the bogs again. There isn't a soul insight. If it wasn't for the god-sent orange arrows on the trees I'd still be in the forest.

Tahakopa Bay Forest, The Catlins, New Zealand

Tahakopa Bay Forest, The Catlins, New Zealand

I have all the time in the world so amble through the forest on an undulating track delighting at the mosses, ferns and diverse trees. Half an hour in I have not got very far as I've spent too much time trying to photograph the forest. It's difficult as the sun doesn't have many opportunities to penetrate the canopy.