Five kilometres north of central Lhasa is Sera Monastery, one of Lhasa's two great Gelugpa monasteries (the other being Drepung). It was once home to 5000 monks. Today it houses just 250.
The monastery is a self-contained complex with its own cobbled streets and white-washed buildings. Every now and again a red-orange robed monk appears and just as quickly disappears down an alley.
The highlight of the monastery is the Debating Courtyard where tourists are allowed between 3 and 5pm. Inside the walls, clusters of monks sit in shady corners, under trees debating various issues. A facilitating monk asks questions and responds to the answers by slapping his hand. Some of the monks look animated, others look bored. As I don't understand the language it's difficult to know whether they are discussing philosophy or what they are having for dinner tonight. Even so it's a colourful spectacle.
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