Wednesday, April 25, 2007

Arenal Volcano, Costa Rica



Arenal volcano is part of the Pacific 'Ring of Fire'. It constantly spews steaming boulders instead of lava. As the magma chamber is 110km below the crater, the lava has cooled before it reaches the surface.

As it's dangerously active, it can only be viewed from a distance. At night, tours take visitors to a viewing point where glowing red rocks can be seen tumbling down the side of the volcano. It's another magical evening, like the one on the Orinoco - the dark shadow of the volcano tinged with red, framed by the silhouetted trees. Only the stars and fireflies add additional light.

La Fortuna, Costa Rica



It's a 4.5 hour bus ride to La Fortuna, a picturesque village sitting at the foot of the perfect conically-shaped Volcán Arenal (1633m). Arenal is the most active of Costa Rica's seven active volcanoes. There are 120 in total. It lay dormant for over 400 years until it erupted in 1968 wiping out the village of Tabacón.

Tuesday, April 24, 2007

White Water rafting, Pacuare River, Costa Rica



On arriving at the river's edge we're drilled with the following commands:

adelante - row forward (duro - hard, suave con amor - gently)
alto - stop
izquierda atrás- the left side of the rafts rows backwards
derecha atrás - the right side of the raft rows backwards
inclinarse - lean in (when about to be engulfed by a huge wave)
Siéntese - squat low in the raft (when about to be engulfed in an even bigger wave)
tequila derecha - all move to the right side of the boat (when there's danger of capsizing)
tequila izquierda - all move over to the left side of the boat
High five - all oars in the air (when we've made it through a difficult rapid)

My group of four is asked whether we'd like to do the 'chicken run' or the 'hard core'. I wonder if anyone opts for the chicken option.

So we set off for a 30km trip down the Pacuare, which means 'little red macaw'. The river is set in stunning rainforest with thick vegetation on both sides. Overhanging trees are studded with bromeliads and exotic plants but I don't have much time to take this in. We have 40 rapids to get through including 6 Grade IVs (Doble Paso, Huacas Arriba, Huacas Abajo, Cimarrones (my favourite involving a three-stage drop), El Indio and Dos Montañas).

Initially I'm afraid of falling in. This means I'll get wet, people will laugh and I have to buy beers all round. But a few minutes in I'm forced to jump in to practise the rescue drill.

The emerald waters are surprisingly tepid and I find it just as pleasant being in the water than on the raft. Four hours, 40 rapids and several capsizings later, we reach the end of the 30km journey. I'm completely exhilarated and can't wait to do it again.

White Water rafting, Pacuare River, Costa Rica



Costa Rica is also a mecca for adrenaline junkies with well-organised sporting activities.

I have always wanted to try white water rafting, something a bit more challenging than paddling down a stream. I'm told the Pacuare River is the place to do it with Grade 1V rapids. I'm new to the system of grading but soon learn that Grade 5 is for experts and Grade VI (the highest) only for the insane. Grade VI involves rafting down sheer waterfalls, and comes with a warning of 'risk of life or limb'.

When the van picks me up in the morning I think I'm making a big mistake as I climb in to join lots of well-toned tattooed sporty types. I feel better when I hear that several people have never tried it before.

The guide advises me that the Pacuare is one of the top rivers in the world for rafting, with only the Zambezi, the White Nile, the Bio Bio and the Futaleufu in Chile being more challenging.

Monday, April 23, 2007

La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Still on the nature trail I catch a boat down the tranquil Sarapiquí River where I spot(or more appropriately the guide points out) howler monkeys, long-nosed bats, a Jesus Christ lizard, a strawberry poison dart from, several birds and a snake swimming upriver.

On the way back to San José I pass through the stunning Braulio Carillo National Park with its dreamy cloud forests and towering tree ferns, where the first Jurassic Park was filmed.

(photo - La Paz Waterfall)

La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


La Paz Waterfall Gardens also has a series of beautiful waterfalls (I have recovered from my waterfall saturation in Venezuela) set in lush rainforest.

(Photo -Magia Blanca Waterfall)

Cupid's Tears (Russelia), La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Orchid, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Orchid (Epidendrum Secundo), La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Orchid, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Most impressive of all for me is the orchid garden where the most delicate, colourful, fragrant orchids are on display. Here I learn that orchids are distinguished by the 3-3-1 category: 3 sepals, 3 petals and 1 lip (which is an enlarged petal). I also learn that there are 1000-1300 species of orchid in Costa Rica.

Butterfly observatory, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Butterfly observatory, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Butterfly observatory, La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


Walking through this indoor observatory, it's easy to get close to the butterflies. On several occasions a couple landed on my shoulder.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens, Costa Rica


My friend described Costa Rica as a 'giant botanical garden', a good summation. A paradise for nature lovers Costa Rica has over 12,000 known species of plants including over 1000 species of orchids; 850 species of bird; 350,000 species of insect; 220 species of reptiles (half of which are snakes) and 170 species of amphibian.

All over Costa Rica you can find orchid gardens, butterfly farms, hummingbird gardens and serpentariums.

La Paz Waterfall Gardens has all of these within a private nature reserve.

Volcán Poás National Park, Costa Rica


'Poor man's umbrella'

Volcán Poás National Park, Costa Rica



Volcán Poás, Costa Rica



An hour north of San José is the Parque Nacional Volcán Poás. The active volcano, which is constantly steaming, has one of the largest craters in the world at 1.3km across.

The last major eruption which created the present crater was in 1955, although the park has since been closed several times due to minor eruptions or noxious fumes.

Although the crater is stunning, it's very much a touristy experience with bus loads of people hiking the short walk from the car park to the viewing platform.

Cloud forest, Costa Rica


Most people come to Costa Rica for its incredible wildlife and national parks. 27% of the country is protected with more than 14% within the national park system. The 35-odd national parks and dozens of private reserves attract visitors from all over the world making tourism Costa Rica's top source of income.

Although Costa Rica has been more forward thinking about protecting its environment (school children are obliged to spend an hour a week planting trees or visiting an ecological reserve), deforestation is taking place at an alarming rate, to make way for farming land and banana plantations.

Butterfly (Morpho Peleides Limpida), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly (Morpho Peleides Limpida), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly (Dryadula Phaetusa), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Orchid, Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly (Danaus Plexippus), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly (Heliconius Doris?), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly (Papillo Polyxenes Stabilis), Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly, Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica


Butterfly, Spirogyra, San Jose, Costa Rica



Spirogyra is a delightful lush tropical garden containing many species of butterflies (and their host plants), including the beautiful electric blue Morpho.

I know next to nothing about butterflies so I'm fascinated to learn that most have a short lifespan of 4-8 weeks. I'm told it's not known exactly why but it could be that the sugars they consume are only enough to sustain their flight, and are not sufficient for them to regenerate tissue and reproduce more than once.

I'm the only one in the garden. It feels like a little piece of tranquil heaven.

(Photo - Parides iphi damas iphidamas)

San José, Costa Rica



I should try to explain 'pura vida' which is a phrase Ticos use at the end of a verbal exchange. Literally it means 'pure life' but is used much like Brits use 'cheers'.

I did not sleep well last night. There was loud music echoing around the hostel courtyard until late and a dog persistently barking for most of the night.

Today I decide to see what the capital, San José, has to offer but I'm disappointed. It seems to have no redeeming features, apart from the renovated national theatre. The buildings are grey and drab, although there are no high rises as Costa Rica is prone to earthquakes, and a mish-mash of sizes and styles. My guidebook describes San José as a 'necessary evil before heading to more rural landscapes'.

I'm surprised to see so many homeless people as Costa Rica has the highest standard of living in Central American countries with only 23% of the population living below the poverty line, compared with 70% in Nicaragua. As it's evident there are many affluent Costa Ricans or 'Ticos', the disparity between rich poor seems more pronounced. There are also has an inordinate number of tourists, particularly Americans - I can hear the accent on every street corner.

The streets have a confusing numbering system which confuses even locals. I spend an age in taxis driving around looking for an address. It seems to only way to find a place is to name a landmark nearby.

(Parque Morazan, San José)

Costa Rica



I'm looking forward to Costa Rica. It's unfair to say I haven't enjoyed Panama as I've seen so very little of it. I'm sure if I'd have manged to get out to the Darien region I'd have seen another side.

My 6.30am start to Costa Rica starts ominously when the hotel tries to bill me again for the room. Once in the taxi the driver begins a slow rant about how Panama is not a true democracy as the (corrupt) government is never accountable for its actions. But if a man were to steal a chicken to feed his starving children he'd be thrown in jail. He repeats this analogy three times while I grunt in agreement from the back seat. It's far too early in the morning to be discussing Panamanian politics.

Again my travel agent had booked me into executive class but I've now stopped worrying about the money I handed over six months ago. The flight is going well and we're on our descent, when the plane takes a sharp turn and starts ascending rapidly. All my cabin mates are chatting away merrily. Has no one else noticed? Am I the only one slightly panicking? It's only when the captain clears his throat and announces that there was a slight 'problem' that they begin to look perturbed. By then, the plane has righted itself and we're on our descent.

Things are unfortunately not getting better. In San José my hotel has no record of my reservation and they're full so I'm forced to move to another hostel. Pura Vida? No way.

(Photo - Plaza de la Democracia, San José)

Thursday, April 19, 2007

Sloth, El Nispero, El Valle, Panama


White peacock, El Nispero, El Valle, Panama


Tigrillo, El Nispero, El Valle, Panama



El Nispero also has a collection of animals in cages.

Bougainvillea, El Nispero, El Valle, Panama


Orchid, El Níspero, El Valle, Panama



El Níspero also has a small but impressive orchid collection although I have to persuade them to let me into the orchid house. I'm told they keep it locked as people have stolen them in the past.

Cupid's Tears (Russelia), El Nispero, El Valle, Panama



One of my favourites

El Nispero, El Valle, Panama


El Valle, Panama



I haven't heard back about my Darien trip so I decide instead to take a day trip to El Valle, a picturesque town nestled in the crater of an extinct volcano, which is known for its handicrafts market.

The bus driver is a nutter, speeding around winding hills. It's one of the few times I've felt sick on a bus. At one point we see a car go off the road but no one stops. It takes us two hours instead of three to arrive and I'm grateful to be in one piece.

El Valle is pretty but the market is nothing special. I manage to see all the stalls at least twice (just to make sure I haven't missed anything) in half an hour.

The town is also noted for El Nispero, a garden of exotic plants, actually my main reason for coming. There's no transport from town so I cadge a lift in the back of a truck up the dusty road.

(Photo - flora at El Nispero)

Semana Santa, Panama City



As I have a few days to spend in Panama I decide to get in touch with a journalist contact and see if he can advise me on places to visit. I already have my mind half set on travelling down the Sambu River in a remote part of the Darien jungle, something described as a 'Heart-Of-Darkness experience, passing through spectacular jungle inhabited by jaguars and mountain lions' by my guidebook.

Aside from being quite dangerous, it's one of the last remaining true wildernesses on the planet. It's not a place that's easy to reach and requires me flying to the small outposts of Garachine or La Palma, taking a local boat and then hiring someone to take me upriver in a dugout canoe. It's also Easter week when many things, including flights are put on hold.

The journalist is not happy about me going on my own and helps me to get in touch with a Director of the region. I decide to go if I can get his help.

While we're waiting to hear back from the Director, he takes me on a tour of Panama's glittering shopping centres and tells me Panama is the cheapest place in Central America to buy goods. While I'm not a big fan of shopping centres, it's good to see familiar shops in a clean, air-conditioned space.

Meanwhile on Good Friday Panama City is alight with several street processions.

Panamanians


Fish market, Panama City


Casco Antiguo, Panama City


Casco Antiguo, Panama City



Casco Antiguo, Panama City



Panama City is not what I expected. I imagined I would be transported back in time (like Cuba) to an old fashioned bustling city where all the men wore Panama hats. I didn't expect a modern, commercial centre full of banks and shopping plazas.

Having said that the colonial Casco Antiguo (old quarter) is reminiscent of a rundown neighbourhood in Havana, and is one of the more interesting parts of the city. Some of the area is under restoration but much of it is dilapidated and full of crumbling buildings.

Panama Canal



The Panama Canal is a marvel. I was expecting either to be bored or completely overwhelmed by all technical information. On the contrary I found it impressive and fascinating.

The Miraflores Locks, one of three sets of locks on the canal, are located 12km outside Panama City. Here there's a platform where you can watch the vessels pass through, as well as a museum covering the history of the canal, and a film which explains how the locks work (I needed this bit).

The transit from the Pacific to the Atlantic side works like this:

Pilot boards vessel on Pacific side - Miraflores Locks - Miraflores Lake - Pedro Miguel Locks - Culebra/Gaillard Cut (13.7km) - Gatun Lake - Gatun Locks - Atlantic Ocean

Some interesting facts:-

- The canal stretches 80km from the Pacific to the Atlantic side
- 14000 vessels pass through a year, on average 38 vessels every 24 hours
- It takes 8-10 hours on average to cross from the Pacific to the Atlantic side
- Vessels are assisted through the canal by tugboats and locomotives
- 52 million gallons of freshwater (rain water accumulated in Lake Gatun) is released into the ocean with the passage of each ship
- Vessels pay according to their weight. Smaller ships pay a minimum of USD 500. The most ever paid was USD 249,000
- 69% of traffic originates or ends in the US
- It's the only canal in the world where the Captain or shipmaster has to pass control of his vessel to a specially-trained pilot
- There are expansion plans underway to allow larger vessels to pass through

Panama City



(Photo - view from Cerro Ancon)

Into Panama



I'm leaving Cuba today for Panama and there's no water to have a shower, a fitting end that pretty much sums up Cuba - sometimes things work and sometimes they don't.

My travel agent has again annoyingly booked me into executive class alongside three identical looking business men who all eye me strangely. I'm wearing my hiking boots as they're too bulky to pack and look quite scruffy I imagine.

It's only about 1.5 hours to Panama City and as I emerge from the airport terminal I'm hit by the sultry heat. Shockingly my transfer (that I arranged only yesterday) is here to pick me up. I'm so used to things not working properly or not being on time that it's a pleasant surprise when once in a blue moon something I arranged works out.

The hotel is fantastic. Actually it's not a great hotel - dull and dingy with disinterested staff but the website is great. Check it as Ali G would say...
http://www.marparaisopma.com/english.htm

(Photo - hazy Panama City)

Friday, April 13, 2007

Maria La Gorda, Cuba



My final stop in Cuba is an isolated beach with one hotel on the west coast, famous for its great diving spots. Here the water is crystal clear and the reefs amazing, including a sheer wall of coral 2000 metres deep and a valley of black coral.

Maria La Gorda is named after a voluptuous Venezuelan girl who was abducted from the Venezuelan coast and abandoned here. In order to survive she was forced to sell herself to passing buccaneers.

The diving here is incredible, with many different corals including the elegant Gorgonian sea fans. Only 15 metres under water I can see over the sheer wall of coral plunging into the abyss. Over the edge there's nothing but deep blue.

Porcelain Rose, Orchideario, Soroa


Orchid, Orquideario, Soroa


Lady's Slipper (Phramipedium Longifolium), Orquideario, Soroa