Paihia was named after missionaries asked local Maoris what the word for 'lovely' was. The Maoris said it was 'pai' so the town was literally named 'lovely here'.
Friday, June 29, 2007
Bay of Islands, New Zealand
Paihia was named after missionaries asked local Maoris what the word for 'lovely' was. The Maoris said it was 'pai' so the town was literally named 'lovely here'.
Bay of Islands, New Zealand
On arriving into Paihia, a small town on the Bay of Islands, I check into my hostel and see if it'll be possible to dive the Rainbow Warrior. The Greenpeace flagship was blown up by the French government to stop protests about French nuclear testing near Tahiti. It's not looking good. I'm told there are six metre waves and a 100 km storm coming.
Haruru Falls, New Zealand
Before reaching Paihia, my stop for the night, I take a quick look at Haruru Falls nearby, a particularly muddy waterfall, which contrasts all the greenery I have seen today.
Hokianga Harbour, New Zealand
The bus stops to drop someone off at the small town of Opononi, located on the beautiful Hokianga Harbour. The town is famous for its friendly Dolphin 'Opo' who in 1955/6 started following boats into the harbour and 'playing' with swimmers. Thousands flocked to see her and she became a national phenomenon. No one knows how she died but she was found washed up a year later. At the i-site (tourist information) in Opononi I watch some live black and white footage of Opo and the long queues of people waiting to see her.
Waipoua Kauri Forest, New Zealand
Although I don't feel I've done Auckland justice in the three days I've been here I'm keen to see the rest of the North Island so a little reluctantly I leave on the 'Magic Bus' for the Bay of Islands in the North. As soon as we leave Auckland the rain starts lashing down so hard I can barely see through the window, and the wind almost blows the small bus off the road. We pass through farmland and rolling countryside so green it looks luminescent.
On the way we stop off at the magnificent Waipoua Forest, a sanctuary with ancient giant kauri trees that can grow up to 60 metres in height and 5 metres in diameter. Ta Matua Ngahere (Father of the Forest) has a trunk of over 5 metres in diameter, believed to be the widest girth of any kauri tree in New Zealand. Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest) is the largest kauri tree in New Zealand and estimated to be around 2000 years old.
(Photo - Tane Mahuta (God of the Forest))
Mount Eden, Auckland, New Zealand
Today back at Qantas I succeed in changing my flights, so to celebrate I catch the 274 bus to Mount Eden, the highest volcanic cone in the area at 196 metres. Climbing to the top of the grassy crater I'm rewarded with great views of the entire city and bay. From here the Sky Tower looks majestic, piercing the clouds with its superior height, and all around the volcano-studded bay shimmers in the fading light.
Auckland, New Zealand
After spending all morning arguing with the manager at Qantas over some flight changes I decide to head to 'Kelly Tarlton's Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World' for some light relief. There are leaflets all over town promoting it so I'm curious. I take the free shuttle from the Sky Tower 6km out of the city. The driver tells me to 'buckle up' and watch the DVD. I'm surprised to learn Kelly's a man.
I'm not sure what to make of the place. It has a 1970's feel to it but with modern interactive elements. First up is the Stingray pool with huge rays including Phoebe who's 40 years old. I then step on to the Snow Cat which takes me through a frozen environment filled with Gentoo and King Penguins. Just as I was feeling impressed a giant animatronic Orca whale leaps up towards the Snow Cat, to highlight a prime danger for penguins.
Apart from the transparent tunnel of sharks and rays, the highlight for me is a replica of Scott's 1911 Antarctic Hut which comes complete with noises and the smells of must and bacon. I try in vain to photograph the sharks and rays but it's dark and they just won't keep still.
(Photo - Stingray at Kelly Tarlton's Antarctic Encounter & Underwater World)
Auckland, New Zealand
It's getting light so there's no point going to bed. I have a hot shower and go out but everything is closed as it's Sunday. Although I'm glad to be in New Zealand my first impressions of Auckland are disappointing as I expected something more impressive. I feel I could be in any city in England.
The Sky Tower dominates the skyline. At 328 metres it's the tallest structure in the Southern hemisphere. A lift takes me up to the observation decks where there are great 360 degree views of the city and bay through glass. As I'm taking photos, someone attached to a wire plummets past me. I'd forgotten that New Zealand is an adrenaline junkie's paradise.
When I step into an internet cafe near my hotel I'm transported to another world. The place is full of Chinese students screaming while playing online games. As I log on to send some emails (a surprising thing to do in this place as most PCs are for gaming) my web pages load up in Chinese.
(Photo - view from the Sky Tower)
To New Zealand
The normal creaking of floorboards and doors wakes me up at 7.30. Normally I'd ignore it and go back to sleep, but I'm leaving today for New Zealand. The airport shuttle picks me up at 2.30 and as we do the rounds of nice hotels including the Grand Hyatt and the Fairmont I wonder why people who have spent 200 dollars on a room are bothering to save 12 dollars on the shuttle instead of getting a taxi. At the airport my bag weighs in at 26 kilos. I don't understand it, as I sent 20 kilos of stuff home from San Francisco. Much of that was shopping I must admit. When I arrive in Los Angeles I'm subjected to another bag search with lint.
The plane to Auckland is full. I watch 'Zodiac' with Mark Ruffalo which is set in San Francisco, although I miss half the dialogue as my headphones are crackly. I manage to sleep for a few hours on the plane which is rare for me and arrive in Auckland at 6am on June 17th. I left on the 15th so I've lost two days of my life. I take the shuttle bus to my hotel and as I'm the last to be dropped off I don't arrive until 7am.
There is a note pinned to the door saying 'Welcome Maria... please press the button next to the intercom to call our night porter.' After I work out what this means and where the relevant technology is located I press the button and wait. Nothing. It's dark and freezing cold, like London in Winter. I press the button again and hold it down. Nothing. I then press all the buttons on the intercom to try and attract some attention but still nothing. After twenty minutes someone leaves the building so at least I'm in the warm now. I wait around for another ten minutes but then spot a phone with the number of the duty manager. He says he'll be down in a minute. The night porter went home at 7am apparently.
(Photo - Auckland)
Tuesday, June 19, 2007
Washington Square, San Francisco
As I walk back to my hotel for the last time someone asks me if I'm lost. I tell him that I'm not and I'm just looking around for photo opportunities.
'Are you from the Island?' he says. I'm impressed as my last taxi driver thought I was Australian. He says whenever he walks this way there are always Brits on a particular alleyway taking photos of the Transamerica Building. I ask him where this alleyway is and he points up the hill.
Of course I can't find it so I walk into a bar to ask.
'What? Where are you looking for?' the man asks as if I'd just spoken an alien language. It's my accent again.
The girl with him says 'Oh you can just get a good view from up the hill'.
'Thanks' I say wishing I'd never asked.
'Top of the morning to you' the man shouts out.
'I'm not Irish, I'm English' I say.
'Er top of the evening to you then'.
(Photo - Saint Peter and Paul Church on Washington Square)
Of course I can't find it so I walk into a bar to ask.
'What? Where are you looking for?' the man asks as if I'd just spoken an alien language. It's my accent again.
The girl with him says 'Oh you can just get a good view from up the hill'.
'Thanks' I say wishing I'd never asked.
'Top of the morning to you' the man shouts out.
'I'm not Irish, I'm English' I say.
'Er top of the evening to you then'.
(Photo - Saint Peter and Paul Church on Washington Square)
San Francisco
San Francisco has some great street names such as Battery, Divisadero, Laguna, Fillmore, Dolores, Van Ness and my favourite - Beach Blanket Babylon Boulevard.
Union Square, San Francisco
I'm growing a little sad as my time here comes to an end. It's been fantastic coming back although a very different experience to when I was here last. San Francisco has and hasn't changed. I definitely have. I will miss the city with its deep blue skies and sparkly pavements. There must be something in Tony Bennett's ' I left my heart in San Francisco'...
(Photo - Union Square now gleaming after its facelift in 2003)
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco
It takes longer than I thought to walk all the way across. I'm not sure what I'll do when I get there or how to get back but decide to work that out later. As I dreamily look out at the city I'm continually menaced by cyclists who had the brighter idea to cycle across.
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco
Golden Gate Bridge is the world's first suspension bridge opened in 1937. Its colour, known as 'International Orange' was originally intended as an undercoat before the grey topcoat was applied. But locals liked it so much it stayed orange ever since - and it takes more than 5000 gallons of paint annually to keep it this way.
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco
Ashamedly I never walked across the Golden Gate Bridge when I lived here so I decide today's the day. I take two buses and join bus loads of tourists who have the same idea as me. The bridge is breathtaking at any time, in fog or in blue sky.
James Morrison in San Francisco
While I'm shopping for new t-shirts I'm drawn into the apple store on Market Street. James Morrison is about to play a live set in a few minutes so I decide to hang around. I have one of his songs on my ipod but know nothing about him.
There's a picture of him (his album cover I think) looking moody in the background so when he's led on 'stage' by one of the apple staff I'm surprised. He's more chirpy and amiable than I expected. After playing his set I leave impressed. His voice is incredible, raspy but smooth at the same time, and he sounds better live than on my recording.
Botanical Gardens, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
Although fairly tired I'm keen to see the Botanical Gardens at Strybing Arboretum since I missed out on the Conservatory of Flowers. It's free entry to the large park divided into themes. I walk around for ages trying to find the Garden of Fragrance as recommended in my guidebook. When I do find it by repeatedly retracing my steps according to the map I have, I find out I have walked past it several times before. I'm disappointed. However I fall in love with the Moon-Viewing Garden which has a wooden platform for viewing the autumn moon. Magnolias, Japanese Maples, and Camellia hybrids surround the reflecting pond giving the garden a magical feel.
(Photo - Moon-Viewing Garden)
Japanese Tea Garden, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
The Japanese Tea Garden is one of the main attractions in Golden Gate Park and is hence mobbed with visitors. It's also the most impressive Japanese Garden I've seen, complete with pagodas, stone lanterns, koi-filled ponds and a miniature waterfall. Incredibly beautiful, the colours in the garden are a feast for the senses.
Shakespeare Garden, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
The Shakespeare Garden is tiny hedged garden showcasing every plant and flower mentioned in Shakespeare's works.
Aids Memorial Grove, Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
Golden Gate park is huge with main roads running through it. I was optimistic to think I could cover most of it in a day.
I head to the Aids Memorial Grove, a lush peaceful garden containing rocks engraved with dedications to lost loved ones.
Golden Gate Park, San Francisco
At the end of Haight Street I cross the road into Golden Gate Park. This seems to be where most of San Francisco's homeless live. I walk past large groups of them sprawled on the grass next to their shopping trolleys.
The Conservatory of Flowers is shut on Mondays. As I'm about to leave a man in a straw hat jumps in front of me and says:
'It's shut today isn't it?'
'Yes, on Mondays' I reply
'Where are you from? What are you doing in San Francisco?' he asks
As I'm in a good mood I tell him San Francisco is my favourite city thinking I'm paying his home town a huge compliment
He looks confused and says:
'Have you been to Barcelona and Paris?'
Now I'm confused as I'm not sure where this conversation's going.
He tells me there's a Guru in town where I can buy a ticket and queue up for a hug. I'm now keen to get away and say I'm in a hurry.
'Will you be coming back?' he asks
'Yes I think so' I say
'Let me give you my card in case you come back'
Grateful that he's letting me leave so easily I thank him and ask his name.
'James in the Rain' he says handing me a bright pink card.
This is the problem. As much as I love San Francisco for its air of freedom and laid-backness, it's full of nutters that have spent too many years on drugs. In a week I have met Mike the Guitar, Nino and James in the Rain. As they've all initiated conversations with me I wonder for a second if I attract weirdos or is it that San Francisco has more than its fair share?
Grateful Dead House, San Francisco
I never got into the Grateful Dead but I thought as I'm here I might as well look at the house they lived in on Ashbury and Waller. It's purple, perfectly manicured but privately owned now.
Haight-Ashbury, San Francisco
I was a pseudo hippie when I was last here in 1993 and remember being disappointed with Haight Ashbury. There was no sign of the Summer of Love then so I'm curious to see whether the area has gentrified further. Walking up Haight Street I feel I'm in a cleaner version of Camden Town with shops painted in psychedelic colours all selling similar faux hippie tat.
Alamo Square, San Francisco
After a day of not doing very much I decide to pack as many touristy things as I can into one day. My first stop is Alamo Square in Pacific Heights to see the 'Painted Ladies', a row of pastel coloured Victorian houses. Alamo Square itself is a park on a hilltop with great views of downtown.
Palace of Fine Arts, San Francisco
One of my travelling companions in Central America arrived here late last night and said I must see the crazy rock statues at the Palace of Fine Arts. My guide book doesn't mention it but the photo I've seen looks unbelievable.
The Palace of Fine Arts is an incredible building with greek-style columns surrounding a pretty lake. Unfortunately there's no rock man today, only three weddings taking place at the same time. We leave slightly disappointed and walk to Fisherman's Wharf to see the crazy bush man instead.
Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco
On the ferry back to the city the Golden Gate Bridge looks magical in the hazy light.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
When I emerge from the cellhouse two hours later the sky is blue and the sun is shining
Alcatraz, San Francisco
The most famous escape attempt involved Frank Morris and brothers John and Clarence Anglin, popularized in the film 'Escape from Alcatraz'. They disappeared from their cells on June 11, 1962 in one of the most elaborate escapes ever devised.
The prisoners made papier mache dummy heads to fool guards during their regular prisoner counts and escaped through enlarged air vents in their cells made by metal spoon and an electric drill improvised from a stolen vacuum cleaner motor (the noise was disguised by accordions played during music hour). The air vents led to the utility corridor and from there they managed to climb up onto the roof. They reportedly stole several raincoats and made life rafts to cross the bay. While I'm reading this, a woman next to me says to her friend 'Escaped on life rafts made of raincoats? I don't think so'. I can't help laughing. The bodies of the three were never found so it's not known whether they managed to escape or drowned.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
There were 14 escape attempts in its history. The bloodiest was known as the 'Battle of Alcatraz' in which five people died during a three-day siege in 1946. A few prisoners managed to escape the cellhouse only to be met by freezing waters and 6-8 knot currents in the bay.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
Alcrataz had several famous inmates with great names:
Al 'Scarface' Capone, Robert Stroud 'Birdman of Alcatraz', Alvin 'Creepy' Karpis and my favourite George 'Machine Gun' Kelly.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
In the kitchen all the knives had to be accounted for with special markers. Even so, several managed to go missing.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
The Recreation Yard is where prisoners could breathe fresh air and exercise. The city of San Francisco tantalises in the background.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
I walk into one of the 'solitary' cells. As a slight claustrophobe I can imagine feeling suffocated by the complete darkness.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
The audio guide directs you around the cellhouse comprising four blocks - A, B, C and D which is 'solitary' or 'the hole' as the prisoners referred to it. The central corridor is named 'Broadway'. The guide includes commentary from former prisoners. One of these tells how he could depressingly hear music, even voices carrying across the water from the city if the wind was blowing the right direction. As the sun streams through the barred windows I imagine how frustrating it would be to be trapped here.
Alcatraz, San Francisco
Alcatraz, renowned for its harsh conditions, averaged 260 prisoners at any one time. Rule and Regulation 5 stated 'You are entitled to food, clothing, shelter and medical attention. Anything else you get is a privilege.
Going to Alcatraz
I also never went to Alcatraz and regretted it so booked my ticket and went along to Pier 33 at 9am. It's swarming with people and the queue is huge already. It's a dull grey day. Where did the blue skies go?
Maybe 300 people board the ferry which takes us just over a mile out to the island. It's tiny, steep and craggy. I can see why it's called 'the rock'. On disembarking we're called over for a briefing by a man with a megaphone who welcomes us to the island and informs us of what we can do.
After watching a 12 minute film on the history of Alcatraz I head off with the rest of the boat to grab my audioguide before entering the cellhouse.
Monday, June 18, 2007
San Francisco
Feeling nostalgic I walk down to where I used to live on Post and Larkin, in the Tenderloin. At first I don't recognise my building but the garage and valeting service that was across the road is still there. One of our favourite pastimes was to sit out on the fire escape and watch the transsexuals entertain themselves and their customers in the shady corner of the garage. The Mother Lode bar at the end of the road is now Annie's Cleaners. All the shops have changed but the area is the same.
I walk further into the Tenderloin. Between Turk and Eddy it's rough, full of red-eyed vagrants missing teeth, and limbs and pushing trolleys full of their belongings. I don't know if it's become worse or if I've just forgotten but I don't remember being this afraid. It seems there are more homeless than I remember, several on every block. I remember when I lived here wondering why there seemed to be more homeless people here than anywhere else. Someone said San Francisco tolerates the homeless and doesn't try to move them on.
(Photo - view from Coit Tower)
Coit Tower, San Francisco
An obviously touristy thing to do I never made it up Coit tower when I lived here. It looms like a sentinel on top of a hill in North Beach. The phallic, fire hose-like tower was built as a monument to firemen with money left by Lillie Coit. She was an eccentric lady who was apparently obsessed with firemen, having been saved from a burning building at the age of eight.
Struggling up the steep hilly streets (how do people live up here?) I feel like I'm about to have a heart attack. I feel better when I see other people stop to rest as well. A lift takes me to the top of the tower where there are fantastic views of the city and the bay albeit through windows. I spot a dark smudge on my lens that's appearing on the photos. I open up the camera and try to blow the dust off. I make it worse. When will I learn?
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)