At one end of the square is the white, blue and green church of St John the Baptist. As I enter I feel I have walked into another world.
Hundreds of white, red, yellow, blue and green candles fill every square inch of the church floor that isn't covered with pine needles. Huddles of locals and shamans kneel before home made altars performing ritual prayers and offerings. I feel I have just entered into medieval times but it's an amazing sight.
The shaman leads the proceedings by handing out cups of alcohol to drink followed by soda (usually Coke) to usurp evil spirits. Candles and eggs are laid out while he chants. If a family member is sick, a live chicken may be sacrificed to signify passing the illness from human to chicken. As I walk around the church I see two chickens moving inside straw bags.
The magical experience turns into a bit of a farce as bus loads of tourists start entering and walking around the small altars. I'm surprised the church hasn't been made out of bounds to tourists. 'They don't like it but they need the money from tourism' I'm told. Of course I can't take photos inside the church so I have to satisfy myself with a postcard from the market.
(Photo - detail from St John the Baptist Church)
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