Monday, April 23, 2007

San José, Costa Rica



I should try to explain 'pura vida' which is a phrase Ticos use at the end of a verbal exchange. Literally it means 'pure life' but is used much like Brits use 'cheers'.

I did not sleep well last night. There was loud music echoing around the hostel courtyard until late and a dog persistently barking for most of the night.

Today I decide to see what the capital, San José, has to offer but I'm disappointed. It seems to have no redeeming features, apart from the renovated national theatre. The buildings are grey and drab, although there are no high rises as Costa Rica is prone to earthquakes, and a mish-mash of sizes and styles. My guidebook describes San José as a 'necessary evil before heading to more rural landscapes'.

I'm surprised to see so many homeless people as Costa Rica has the highest standard of living in Central American countries with only 23% of the population living below the poverty line, compared with 70% in Nicaragua. As it's evident there are many affluent Costa Ricans or 'Ticos', the disparity between rich poor seems more pronounced. There are also has an inordinate number of tourists, particularly Americans - I can hear the accent on every street corner.

The streets have a confusing numbering system which confuses even locals. I spend an age in taxis driving around looking for an address. It seems to only way to find a place is to name a landmark nearby.

(Parque Morazan, San José)

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