Wednesday, February 21, 2007

Cotopaxi Volcano, Ecuador



Quito is dead. The streets are empty and an eerie feel pervades the air. It seems everyone has left for the coast or the mountains during Carnival weekend. I'm not sure what to do so I consult my trusted guidebook. It recommends Cotopaxi volcano as one of Ecuador's highlights so I sign up to climb again. I must be mad. After all my whinging about climbing volcanoes here I am again doing it in the snow and paying 45 dollars for the privilege.

The drive to Cotopaxi National Park takes about two hours through the 'Avenue of Volcanoes', also part of the Pan-American Highway. Although there are only four active volcanoes enroute there are over 50 'volcanic peaks'. Once inside the park it's another hour's drive to the car park where we begin our trek to 4800 metres. Cotopaxi, which means 'collar of the moon' in Quichua, is the second highest peak in Ecuador (after Chimborazo) and is an active volcano having last erupted in 1904.

I'm sceptical as to whether I'll actually be able to see the volcano as it's been misty and drizzling all morning. I also hadn't anticipated snow at the starting point and temperatures of zero degrees. Luckily the guide has brought along several woolly hats and pairs of gloves for us to borrow.

Immediately the walk starts on volcanic sand and snow and it's a slow trudge uphill as my feet sink ankle deep into the ground. As the mist thickens visibility becomes very poor and for a while I can only see a few metres ahead of me. Although I stop several times I find it relatively trouble-free and am surprised I have no cause to swear along the way. For a couple of minutes the mist clears to reveal the Cotopaxi Summit although it very quickly mists over.

On reaching 4800 metres I feel like continuing (the 5-8 hours) to the summit at 5897 metres but this calls for crampons, ice-axes and probably some expertise.

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