Lanin Volcano, Lake District, Argentina

I don´t know what´s wrong with me but today I eagerly agree to climb to the base of a volcano. Could have had an easy day pottering around San Martin de los Andes, but no, I decided I needed a challenge (and I do need the practise for my 8-hour trekking days in Torres del Paine later this month).

Lanin is the highest volcano in the area at 3776 metres, and means both ´dead rock´ and something like ´greedy bugger´ in Mapuche, as it hasn´t erupted in over 200 years but has two craters. It´s half the size of Aconcagua, the highest mountain in South America, and takes 3 days to climb to the summit. The south face requires technical gear like ice axes and crampons etc.

The bus stops at Junin de los Andes, another small town in the lake district (and trout capital), for lunch before heading to Lanin volcano. Poplar spores fill the air like snowflakes giving the place an ethereal feel. We also make another stop at the trout farm but it´s closed as it´s too early in the season.

On the drive to Lanin, I smell burning and the bus conks out. Apparently the driver didn´t notice that the oil had run out and kept on driving. This means we need to walk 2-3 km to the start of the walk to base camp. It´s hot, dry and dusty and the rocky road seems endless. I´m exhausted by the time I arrive and have accomplished nothing. Would prefer to sit and have coffee and cake but this is not an option so grudgingly begin the walk to the base of the volcano.

The first half of the walk, which takes about 45 minutes, is delightful as it´s through shady forest. On emerging through the trees, I see Lanin majestically draped with ribbons of snow. It´s still a fair way to the treeline though and this is where the walking gets difficult. I´m determined to reach the snow so plough through the lunar landscape of rocks and volcanic sand in the heat. It´s all uphill for another half an hour until I realise the snow is a lot further away than it looks. I console myself with having at least reached the treeline at 1800 metres.