We´re met off the boat by our tour leader and acquire another two park guides, Eduardo and Serkan, for our 5-day trek in Torres del Paine. I´m secretly dreading the long hikes, described in my guidebook as 'challenging'.
A few of my friends that have been have said that Torres del Paine National Park is stunning and even with this in mind, I´m completely unprepared for its spectacular beauty. It´s exactly as I imagined it, vast windswept plains, snowcapped mountains, looming clouds and turquoise lakes. My ideal landscape. Sublime.
As we´re arriving late into the park we´re missing one leg of the 'W' circuit (which I´m told is the dull bit) so instead we´re dropped off at Laguna Verde for a 12km walk to Rio Paine, an amazing turquoise expanse of water fed by glacial waters.
For 4 1/2 hours I walk through undulating terrain through open plains, forests, past lakes and meadows of spring flowers. By the end of the 5 days I am well acquainted with the Calafate bush (Box-Leafed Barberry) which has yellow flowers or purple berries depending on the time of year, the fire-bush (Notro or Ciruelillo) and the Chaura berries. The weather changes from rain to bright spells and I remove my onion layers only to have to put them all on again within minutes. The wind is brutal. On several occasions I nearly get blown off the mountain. One minute you´re pushing hard to walk against the wind and as it dies suddenly you topple over.
I am lagging behind as I have been taking far too many photos and make my way down the mountain on my own after a stop at the 'Laguna Los Ciervos' viewpoint which overlooks the stunning Rio Paine. The colours fill my senses - yellow (buttercups and dandelions), red (fire-bush), turquoise (lakes) - and I remember feeling happier than I have for ages.
Burnt trees fill the landscape. A serious fire started by a tourist two years ago affected 15-20% of the park. Although the park is recovering slowly it has left a legacy of dead trees that stand out like shafts of bone.
At the Paine Grande campsite the guides have laid on a spread of cheeses, hams, chocolates and wine for us, before dinner. This is definitely camping in style and I´m not complaining.
A few of my friends that have been have said that Torres del Paine National Park is stunning and even with this in mind, I´m completely unprepared for its spectacular beauty. It´s exactly as I imagined it, vast windswept plains, snowcapped mountains, looming clouds and turquoise lakes. My ideal landscape. Sublime.
As we´re arriving late into the park we´re missing one leg of the 'W' circuit (which I´m told is the dull bit) so instead we´re dropped off at Laguna Verde for a 12km walk to Rio Paine, an amazing turquoise expanse of water fed by glacial waters.
For 4 1/2 hours I walk through undulating terrain through open plains, forests, past lakes and meadows of spring flowers. By the end of the 5 days I am well acquainted with the Calafate bush (Box-Leafed Barberry) which has yellow flowers or purple berries depending on the time of year, the fire-bush (Notro or Ciruelillo) and the Chaura berries. The weather changes from rain to bright spells and I remove my onion layers only to have to put them all on again within minutes. The wind is brutal. On several occasions I nearly get blown off the mountain. One minute you´re pushing hard to walk against the wind and as it dies suddenly you topple over.
I am lagging behind as I have been taking far too many photos and make my way down the mountain on my own after a stop at the 'Laguna Los Ciervos' viewpoint which overlooks the stunning Rio Paine. The colours fill my senses - yellow (buttercups and dandelions), red (fire-bush), turquoise (lakes) - and I remember feeling happier than I have for ages.
Burnt trees fill the landscape. A serious fire started by a tourist two years ago affected 15-20% of the park. Although the park is recovering slowly it has left a legacy of dead trees that stand out like shafts of bone.
At the Paine Grande campsite the guides have laid on a spread of cheeses, hams, chocolates and wine for us, before dinner. This is definitely camping in style and I´m not complaining.
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