Had the best night´s sleep in my arctic sleeping bag but it´s too late. I have managed to acquire a feverish cold complete with chain smoker´s cough. I´m feeling spaced out so I´m nervous about the trek today which has been billed as the toughest. I´m determined to have a go and complete the 'W'.
The walk begins at the Hosteria Las Torres and almost immediately we're climbing a steep hill at a gradient of 40-45 degrees for an hour. It´s rocky and dusty and relentless for the best part of an hour. I´m promised a magnificent view of the Valle Ascencio which´ll make it all worthwhile (I´m cynical) but the path winds round hidden corners and never seems to reach the top.
Serkan waits with me while I catch my breath and cough my way to the top. There is a magnificent view of the valley but mainly I´m relieved it´s downhill for a while. In half an hour we´re at the Campamiento Chileno where we break for lunch by the river. It´s another two hours undulating walk through forest to reach the base camp, a much easier ride than the initial climb. I decide not to climb the rubble of rocks to see the three peaks but to walk on towards the Japanese camp where I can see them from a lower angle. I just about see them before it clouds over and then it´s time to head all the way back.
Have a well-deserved hot chocolate back at camp while we wait for those that climbed the rubble. Then we´re whisked off by minivan back to Puerto Natales. I sleep the whole two hours back as my cold has now got a grip. As I slide in and out of consciousness I catch glimpses of the park through the window and feel a profound sadness to be leaving.
Back in Puerto Natales, I am in bed by eight dosed up with paracetamol.
(Photo - Valle Ascensio)
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