In the afternoon we catch the boat to Livingston, a strange Caribbean town on the mouth of the river, seemingly full of drunks and oddballs. There's not much to see in Livingston but the boat ride through Cueva de la Vaca, a steep-walled gorge hung with great tangles of jungle foliage and bromeliads is stunning. On the way we also pass through river inlets teeming with mangroves and water lilies.
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