I like La Paz instantly despite its chaos. Arriving at night from the new city, El Alto, perched on the rim of the canyon, my first vision of the city is of twinkling lights. It's a sharp descent of 500 metres to the old town where the streets rise steeply to reach the edge of the canyon, ringed by snow-capped mountains. It's a stunning place, and also the highest capital in the world at 4000 metres.
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