At Deep Cove I board the Patea Explorer, a vessel that can hold 160 people but there are only 23 of us today. Heading down Malaspina Reach, the main channel, I feel I'm at last in a remote wilderness, rugged and untouched. As the boat travels down the fjord I'm the only person on deck as the wind is ferocious. Every few minutes I need to come inside and defrost before heading out again.
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